Engine bay temps have been pretty high lately, so I installed some hood louvers with water trays! I think it looks great and already noticing coolant temps are rising much slower

 

Well it’s been a minute and a half.

If anyone’s still reading.

I put on long tubes last October, and ever since this spring my car has been running a little hotter. I would always be pegged to 87 and on rare occasions I would see up to 89, flicker 90 maybe.
Going into summer heat I’ve been unable to use my A/C as the coolant temps just climb when the ambient is nasty.
So I’ve been running in the summer heat, just driving no a/c, the fan on cold made the temps climb a little at first and then it got to the point where I had to drive with my heater on low.
I’ve seen 105 and it’s not right. My target is 87-91. 93 sure if my ac worked and it didn’t go any higher I’d be happy. 94-95 I run hot hair through the cabin to cool down 95 and over I don’t feel comfortable and would shut down if I didn’t think it would stop….

I’ve thought this whole time it was my headers. Few months ago I had vented my hood, it definitely slowed the climb up to temp, but no reduction in the highest coolant temp obtainable.
Lately I had become suspicious of the heater core metal tube being too close to the header.
And so I removed the old heater hose entirely, and added new 3/4” heater hose and looped it so the hose no longer went closer to the exhaust before going to the heater core.
that helped quite a lot! And so I was sure that’s my issue! I ordered some header wrap style hose sleeve.
By the time it arrived, I was now more skeptical of the thermostat possibly sticking slightly open. I had done a few flushes and was planning on drilling some holes in a new thermostat and slapping on my heat shield sleeve to the heater core tubes/ hoses, but today on my way to work my temps just climbed and climbed.
i could usually get half way to work (7 min of highway driving) before I’d be at 89.
today I was at 80 when I got on the highway just 20 seconds of run time more or less, and it just climbed 1-2 degrees a second and I’m like wtf wtf nooo haha.

so I end up limping it to work, getting it up to like 100km/h holding it till I hit about 95C and I would shut it down and coast, wait a little while and do it again, first few times I stopped and went to check on it, fan was running, was convinced, thermostat.
so I do this again now, this time getting high in speed, holding, shut down, coast, restart, push speed back up, shut down, coast and it probably took me 45 min to get to work when I had left early and kinda planned on doing the trip in about 12 minutes and getting a coffee haha.

so anyway get to work and swap out the thermostat as I was pretty confident it was now just stuck closed. It was fine, problem persisted, fan was on but not that strong. The two rad fan fuses and relays are good, but while testing the low speed fan relay we discovered it didn’t seem to be actuating. We had by chance an equinox or something in the shop of the same design and tested it. It’s low speed fan relay when actuated was strong.

As to my understanding the high speed on its own is not in itself technically high speed, it is the combination of both high and low (actuated on the rad fan) the creates a high speed moving fan.

so now I’m just baffled, that this whole time it really could’ve just been my rad fan was getting weaker and weaker until it just **** the bed today.


Asking for a friend, would you remove the supercharger and manifold and try to get it out of the engine bay or would you remove 2 exchangers, disconnect the rad and condenser from their brackets and try to get it from the bottom?

 

Got to work this morning. Car had a dead battery which was odd. Pulled it inside, swapped the rad fan out. Lowered the radiator support brackets took off all my heat exchangers and was able to move the rad forward and pull it up.

test fire up should happen shortly. Moment of truth

 

Rad Fan did not fix the problem, pulled the thermostat and drilled 4 tiny holes. Fired it up and its Rising slowly again. Need to road test. But I think it's making it home at least today. Idk though, I guess all that really left is water pump or a restriction in the engine somewhere.

 

Heater core has a death of a thousand suns though, IT would lead us to believe the water pump does work, yet at the same time, lower coolant hose is barely warm. rad is also barely warm

 

Drilled some holes in the thermostat, (probably drilled one too many.) Took a while but It's been outside for 20minutes in like 80% humidity at 30C and is flickering 83-84C with the A/C on full blast and recirc on (trying to add as much heat as possible)

Optimistic enough it'll come home tonight

 

Drilled too many holes. But it works. Ran max a/c all the way home and flickered between 83-84.

Think I’ll try another thermostat with less holes and see if I can move it up just a little more

 

Going to swap out the thermostat tonight with one with one 1/8" hole and work my way up from there. Also Ordered some header wrap sleeve for my header core tubes that'll go on tonight.
Good new is my coolant is really clean and pure now haha.

Also for the past few days my car has been dying. Couple months ago I had an issue with I first put on my hood vents and it seemed they were bridging a connection to my intercooler pump. I added some liquid electrical tape to a few areas I thought could be causing a bridge and it went away for a little while. However it's come back, for whatever reason with my hood closed my intercooler pump just runs and runs. As soon as I 'pop' my hood, stops, super weird.
Can't see any wires getting pinched, or exposed, Only thing that really touches anything is my metal water tray (bolted to the hood about 1.5" down) to the red cap on top of my PDC, but that's electric to plastic, it shouldn't jump a circuit unless its actually jumping through the plastic.

Any way, going to add an on/off switch to it and see if that stop it.

 

Did some stuff!!
Got a new thermostat in, one 1/8" hole for fluid and one probably 1/32" hole just for air was my logic. Warms up a lot quicker, Stayed under 88C on my way to work, AC on! Moved my heater core lines again, probably have a two foot section that loops as far as it can away from the exhaust without pinching or bending!

As for my no starts, I determined, the way my Intercooler power wire was ran: I used a double fuse tap, and ran the wire through a slot I had cut on the PDC so when the top cover was placed on, it wouldnt snag the wire.
However despite the slot I cut, when the Red Cap on the PDC cover was placed gently on, there was oddly enough pressure to squeez the pump power wire against my large power wire supplying the PDC positive post. Thus powering on my intercooler pump without key being on, Jumping the fused circuit it was on.
My original plan was just to add a kill switch and if I didn't find the issue, it probably would have worked, however I didn't have a 2nd terminal to add a switch so I played around a lot more than I needed to this weekend.

Moved on to my last issue, My battery continued to not hold power. Since I moved around that wire the day before, there were no more obvious battery drains.
I charged up my booster pack, slapped it on and nothing. Charged it up for another night, slapped it on, nothing. Started our spare vehicle to jump the car, and it ran!
Charged for 20 minutes holding 15.2V. Let it sit for another 2hours, tried to start, Nothing..

So now under the assumption my booster pack was toast and so was my battery. I had a spare little Honda battery that was in rough shape, but she did the job. Slapped it in my car, boosted it with our spare vehicle, got it to charge and will give it a much nicer battery now that I'm at work! Think the winner is a group 47 AGM with 660CCA. 60 more than last time and moving away from a conventional battery.

Was tempted to just Remove the battery out of our spare vehicle but was worried that If I drained that battery, I would have 3 batteries and no running vehicles lol, glad I figured it all out!

 

So after some data collection, I still speculate my Cooling system is still operating irregularly.
I contacted ZZP and they suggested my Radiator could be blocked internally and explained the Heat transfer from Exhaust to Heater core tubes: couldn't be my issue.

Initially, completely doubted the possibility. However, I started to think, and believe it's possible, while I had blown out my rear main about two winter's ago, an "all makes model coolant," was added to the system despite the car only ever running Mopar Oat since boosted, having copious amounts in the building and telling the Service Manager what to refill with. It's just a theory, The RO never stated what it was refilled with and at the time I was probably so worked up about getting home that I didn't care enough to scan everything imaginable. My gut tells me something is wrong and I must continue going down the list.
I ordered a Spectra Radiator online roughly 100 bucks and it should be here by the end of the month.

finger's crossed!

 

Keep us posted brotha. Not much update on my end. This summer has been crazy. I went through forrest fires and floods all in the same damn summer brotha. Its been HELL lol. Anyway you just gotta keep pushing through lol

 

omg what? Tell me more? Didn’t know there was a fire or a flood out east this summer?

yeah it’s been crazy here. Smoke almost everyday from the fires. Then we had ice here two days ago lmfao..

I did a block drain a few days ago, then a few flushes, primed the system with new coolant, closed all the drain ports and filled the entire system through the coolant overflow tube going to the resivoir . it seems to be a little better.
little bit of water wetter too, one 3/32 hole In the thermostat now.

i think I’m going to pull my ECT sensor tonight, I’ve seen no signs of sludge yet, but on the block drain some sediment did turn up in the pan. Not lots but enough that it could be seen.

 

Sounds good brotha. Hopefully you get no more issues. Yeah Nova Scotia isn't use to fires like on the west side. I had to evacuate from my house for a full week and at one point the fire was about 10 minute drive from my house. Lots of houses got destroyed and burned right to the foundation. Then when I was visiting my best friend up in Kelowna BC my mother and brother were both calling me and found out NS had huge flooding at got like 250mm of water in a 24 hour period. As a result my whole damn basement got ruined. My little brother and mother thankfully had a key to my place but unfortunately a ton of **** got destroyed including flooring and walls which ended up getting mold. The insurance company said it be until early next year until the work gets started. And now this weekend NS is getting a damn hurricane starting late Friday night into Saturday. My brotha it's been a damn sH#t show this summer. I got no work at all done to my car this summer. Was fooling with a new lady friend but unfortunately she is going through a really messy divorce so we both agreed to cool it for awhile or forever who freakin knows so i'm single again. Thats why i've been silent on the forum for soo long because of everything in my life going damn sideways brotha.

 

Damn! That is rough, my god..
Insurance company as in getting you the money early next year or just starting the documents early next year for rebuilding? either way that's a long a$s time to wait for your home!
I heard about the coming Hurricane, your not catching a break at all , sorry to hear man.

I slapped a new ECT sensor in over the weekend, my old sensor was very discolored dark brown, put a shiny new sensor in and it seemed the temps are moving a little quicker, perhaps reading quicker,. Drove the whole way to work today at 86-87C which was perfect, hit 89C when I parked it but it flickered back down right away as appose to floating around the values , so I'm pretty optimistic.

 

Tks brotha. Hopefully the new ECT is the solution and the car starts running better.

 

Oh Yeah I think it's solved! Must've just been sediment in the system (block side) or a heavily corroded sensor maybe..

SOO I got a little trans cooler today for free, and I'm debating what I should use it for. It would fit perfectly ontop of my reinforcement bar and I'm thinking Fuel Cooler before rail maybe, also could be used as an oil cooler or an actual trans cooler, undecided yet. Could increase engine coolant capacity, already have two coolers for Supercharger so no point adding a third,,
Ideas anyone>

 

OR maybe it could be plummed into my methanol injection, increased capacity, idk if methanol/ water would benefit from being in a cooler but increased capacity on its own would be kinda cool

 

Hmmm, Well I think easiest haha would be running the hose from the Engine coolant tank to the cooler, then from the outlet on the cooler run it to the thermostat Boom, done. No changing or adding barbs or fittings

Wouldnt really do much except increase capacity though, but even then it's not really circulating in the cooler, easy but not very functional

 

Or could double down, from the outlet of the heater core, could run the hose to the cooler and back to the engine return. Cooler doesn't have a fan, so at idle in winter shouldn't be a huge issue with warming up.
the possibilities are almost limitless! lmao I have too much time on my hands...

 

Recently been having a long and bogging start in the cold weather, changed plugs, air filter, cleaned throttle body, oil changed, new battery, pulled out the laptop today to find U2105, U2100, U2107 and U0073
CAN bus error ECM
Can Bus OFF
Lost communication with body control system
Control Module Communication Bus A off

 

Data Logger dropped communication after 30 seconds on start up. Only thing logging was analog AFR after that 30 seconds.

Last week I had a code P1501 and U0073, however I thought it was a fluke.
I originally thought P1501 was wheel speed but it looks like it's actually theft deterrent system, So I guess I'll start with looking at my BCM tonight

 

Yes i was gunna say because the BCM might be the issue. Keep me posted brotha. A little update with my car its back in the body shop to get my G5 GT rear lip installed. I'll post up pics once its done. Here is a youtube video of what mine will look like once its on my car.

 

Damn I like that car! haha

Yeah it's weird, Idk the theft deterred system code leads me to believe it's my ignition module, key is a little loose you can kinda pull it out a half inch.
Thinking I may try disabling VATS using my other key, I'm kinda cluless at what it could be.

The codes themselves aren't scaring me, no drivability issues have come up other than my start ups are really funky, and the inability to log start up
Might try to clean some grounds up but other than that idk really know. Checked my cig fuse which is shared with the OBD port.

Pushed all the pins back into my BCM some were a smidge out, will check obd port for loose pins too.

 

I think I got it resolved, need to do a couple more cold restarts to verify but I'm optimistic haha Removed the front trans ground, the one on the drivers strut tower, under headlamp, under coolant bottle, cleaned them all up and seems a lot better. Haven't been able to get the communication codes to come back yet so finger's crossed