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Old Jul 31, 2013 | 11:06 PM
  #576  
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From: Port Perry
Originally Posted by Hobbitjones
Also what's the benefit of a single pass inlet manifold? Just browsing your site and saw it
cool ait2 temps. hate to make them. there are a few out there, mine and one i built into a car locally in 2007 still working well. i am dual pass at the moment, getting ready to do a temperature study over a few months before fall.
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Old Jul 31, 2013 | 11:06 PM
  #577  
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From: Neapolis, Oh
Thanks for the info John! So at this time it's still experimental then? Can you run a stainless line with stock routing? Sick of the gunk on outside think its time to change lol. I run my car all year long btw if that helps in snow and salt. I also hope to keep it forever though
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Old Jul 31, 2013 | 11:13 PM
  #578  
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From: Port Perry
Originally Posted by Hobbitjones
Thanks for the info John! So at this time it's still experimental then? Can you run a stainless line with stock routing? Sick of the gunk on outside think its time to change lol
No the PCV is not an experiment. It stops the oil going into the inlet. I am just explaining why the routing is different, and advising that condensation and ecotecs in winter is a potential issue; it is not so much on Turbo LNF as they have fresh air inlet and higher under hood temperatures. More and issue on the normally aspirated LS/LT.

running a stainless line instead of a rubber hose with stock PCV does absolutely nothing. If your hose is cracked and you are leaking vented oil you just need to replace the hose.

Last edited by Powell Race Parts; Jul 31, 2013 at 11:26 PM.
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Old Jul 31, 2013 | 11:18 PM
  #579  
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From: Neapolis, Oh
Ok sorry my mistake I misunderstood lol. And just wondered as it looks much cleaner
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Old Jul 31, 2013 | 11:27 PM
  #580  
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From: Port Perry
If you have issues with crankcase blow by and oil in the throttle body, then first thing is to do a leak down test to determine engine health. Just as you cant tune a motor with check engine lites or a broken intercooler pump, you cant deal with PCV issues without understanding if there is excess blow by from broken rings damaged pistons or leaking valves. Just saying...
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Old Jul 31, 2013 | 11:31 PM
  #581  
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From: Port Perry
Originally Posted by Hobbitjones
Ok sorry my mistake I misunderstood lol. And just wondered as it looks much cleaner
stainless or black fabric, the hose looks good and the positive AN hose connectors are a joy to work with compared to barbed fittings and hose clamps. and everything does look cleaner no doubt. I am now considering removing the strut tower isolation covering on my Redline. its a crummy job and is best done in winter, but InfraRedline's clean towers are awesome and an inspiration ! lol
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Old Jul 31, 2013 | 11:33 PM
  #582  
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From: Neapolis, Oh
Gotcha! Yea I guess when I thought experimental was thinking the routing. Yea at 172k I think my line is prolly just wore out lol
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Old Jul 31, 2013 | 11:40 PM
  #583  
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From: Port Perry
Originally Posted by Hobbitjones
Gotcha! Yea I guess when I thought experimental was thinking the routing. Yea at 172k I think my line is prolly just wore out lol
it maybe expensive to get the oem moulded hose check it out i have some good ones around here you pay shipping...
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Old Aug 1, 2013 | 01:40 AM
  #584  
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From: Neapolis, Oh
John throw me an email with price on that piece or if you have a stainless one with the proper fittings just let me know.
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Old Aug 1, 2013 | 02:57 AM
  #585  
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From: Carol Stream, IL
Originally Posted by Powell Race Parts
That guy Shael Rosen came to me for a trans rebuild ( a failed rebuild from another shop) we fixed it, he came back with a speedo jumping. Said it was the trans fault. I drove it. Clearly it was
not the trans. He was mad about it I offered to pull the trans and open it and if as I said it was not broken he would pay for the work. He left.

Earlier I sold him the ex Matty Omiotek mounts I got to dissect and figure out what TTR had done to copy, along with material analysis. They had been sitting around for three years and i sold them for like 25 bucks.

I saw that post and decided to take the high road.

the same guy Rosen is a James Rake nutswinger.

Funnily enough, he also posted his motor blew up.

click

this....bought them to try as i got them for cheap since ttr wanted testers.....hated them. john gave me a good exchange so we could analyze the junk. needless to say they they proved to just be that and john and i had a thread going that was later locked. john got sick of them being oversized paper weights. they can talk **** all they want on their teenage facebook page since it keeps their nieve nonsense off here.
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Old Aug 1, 2013 | 07:58 AM
  #586  
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Originally Posted by Omiotek

this....bought them to try as i got them for cheap since ttr wanted testers.....hated them. john gave me a good exchange so we could analyze the junk. needless to say they they proved to just be that and john and i had a thread going that was later locked. john got sick of them being oversized paper weights. they can talk **** all they want on their teenage facebook page since it keeps their nieve nonsense off here.
It cracks me up honestly.
Did he(they) miss the part where John did it FIRST?

John, where's the time machine you used to copy ttr? I'm sure there's tons of future things we could copy!
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Old Aug 1, 2013 | 08:20 AM
  #587  
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Clean them up like this, John?

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Old Aug 1, 2013 | 08:57 AM
  #588  
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From: Neapolis, Oh
That looks good!
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Old Aug 1, 2013 | 09:10 AM
  #589  
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From: Port Perry
Originally Posted by Tennpenn83
Clean them up like this, John?



yes. a lot of work. looks excellent ( picture quality aside lol) strut bar makes me laff
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Old Aug 1, 2013 | 09:16 AM
  #590  
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From: Port Perry
Originally Posted by Hobbitjones
John throw me an email with price on that piece or if you have a stainless one with the proper fittings just let me know.
tyler replacing the line is best to go stock. If you really want to do it right, its 350 for a complete oil seperator PCV set up. You have to tell me what intake tube you have so I can provide the correct AN6 male fitting to match your inlet tube. If aftermarket alloy or steel need outside diameter of the pcv line- maybe 1/2 inch....
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Old Aug 1, 2013 | 10:00 AM
  #591  
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From: pittsburgh
Originally Posted by Powell Race Parts
tyler replacing the line is best to go stock. If you really want to do it right, its 350 for a complete oil seperator PCV set up. You have to tell me what intake tube you have so I can provide the correct AN6 male fitting to match your inlet tube. If aftermarket alloy or steel need outside diameter of the pcv line- maybe 1/2 inch....
The kit is really high tech Got your Email John. Thanks for the order.
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Old Aug 1, 2013 | 10:07 AM
  #592  
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From: Long Island NY
Originally Posted by Omiotek
For a pure street car im not sure how i feel about them because on the street they are pretty much an invisible mod imho. dont get me wrong. they dont make noise and they are 150% street worthy. by all means though if your stock bushings wear out get these as replacements.

now for a street/spirited track day car i think these are 100% worth it. they allow the beam to travel emensly more and with a twisting beam style car its needed. now to give an example here... if you have stock bushings you can drop your shocks and it will kind of hang out at an 45 angle. try doing that with these bushings in there the beam will fall to a complete 90 degree angle to the trunk floor.

so my 2 cents here is im 100% satisfied for what these have done for me and i push the car at the limits with a xxx bar out back and just like my xxx control arms i love how the car feels. they do the job in the front and this definately does the job in the rear. my tires stay planted to the ground.
Thanks for your opinon, i will be hitting the track in sept and october so i think that these will be worth it.

Originally Posted by Powell Race Parts
Amanda in Grand Prairie Alberta has them in her Cobalt LS it was cheaper to use those and do a brake conversion to disc than fix it the OEM way. All good.
I run them. All good.
HalfPenny and Wangspeed have them, I am sending them the latest updates; Matty has a time attack rear beam with a clamping rear bushing. Stock beams have a simple tube and I had to revise the inserts to stop them walking in the beam.
as far as operation and NVH, really acceptable trade off and not noisy much at all, Harshness is there you hear the tar strips and even feel them sometimes. Thats the trade off, spherical to rubber inserts.

John in a couple weeks i will be placing an order for the rear bushing and the spherical CABs
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Old Aug 1, 2013 | 10:30 AM
  #593  
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From: Port Perry
^^^ okay if you order by beginning of next week I can send you the kent moore tool from NY, to remove the old inserts if you need that.
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Old Aug 1, 2013 | 11:12 AM
  #594  
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From: Columbus, Ohio
Originally Posted by Powell Race Parts
yes. a lot of work. looks excellent ( picture quality aside lol) strut bar makes me laff
John, we've had this discussion before... The strut bar is only there for aesthetic reasons, it matches the color scheme I've got going on...
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Old Aug 1, 2013 | 03:53 PM
  #595  
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Goo-Gone takes that nasty tar crap right off of the strut towers. Come on John!
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Old Aug 1, 2013 | 04:42 PM
  #596  
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I want a color coordinated strut bar too!
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Old Aug 1, 2013 | 04:49 PM
  #597  
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Say what you want... I like how it goes with the engine bay.
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Old Aug 1, 2013 | 06:57 PM
  #598  
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From: Port Perry
Originally Posted by armcclure
Goo-Gone takes that nasty tar crap right off of the strut towers. Come on John!
WINTER project. I now hate looking at my towers. Vacuumed out the debris in the crevices around it today. Ugh.
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Old Aug 1, 2013 | 07:54 PM
  #599  
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From: Hickory
Did I read on here some where that you can swap out the LSJ front sway bar and the LNFs thicker bar?
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Old Aug 1, 2013 | 08:53 PM
  #600  
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From: Carol Stream, IL
you can but the difference is like 1mm i think
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