that was my next question, the powder coat under the coil pack bolts have to be cleaned off along with the ground strapping, that is how the coil packs are grounded

 

That could be the problem

 

You need air, fuel, compression, and spark.

Air should be fine, you are supercharged and that alleviates a lot of boost leak issues due to less or no piping.

Fuel could be relay, filter, pump, etc. If you smell fuel in your dipstick then its getting fuel and washing down the cylinder into the crank case, this isnt a big deal at first but gives you indication of fuel working.

Compression could be bad timing, bad piston, bad rings, etc. Highly unlikely since you just built it.

Spark could be the ground, wiring harness not seated, if you pulled the fuse panel check to make sure all your harnesses are bolted and seated. ECU.

Its usually the simplest thing so dont fret you will find it.

 

Thanks man :twotumbs I'm pretty sure its just a sensor not plugged in somewhere or a bad ground due to paint.

 

You can try to start it with the CPS unplugged, and it should fire after like 5 seconds. If it fires with it unplugged then you just have to line it up correctly. There are 6 ways it can go in as you know and only one is correct, however it will start even if the CPS is off time but there are one or 2 ways it can go in that it will not start. Happened to me when I put my head on. Would crank but not start. Retimed the CPS blindly and it fired after like 5 seconds. Then after I knew it was CPS related I moved the wires out of the way and set the engine at TDC again and line it up correctly....like I thought I did the first time lol. It spins so freely that sometimes is moves before it gets into the cam hex.

 

yeah, mine did that too, I didnt leave it unplugged and turned it over a lot to get it to start. When i timed the CPS it has a magnet in it that will pull it off line but its you can just use your finger to hold it as you slide it in the hex.

 

it is a tremendous big deal

 

why didnt quote my whole post my friend. Just the first few times is not a big deal, it would become a problem if you are rich over the break in period.

 

its a big deal period due to the fact gas in the oil from a no fire or over rich condition thins the oil to the point of not lubricating the bottom end and it will wash the cylinder walls down and remove the lubrication from the cylinder walls and gaw and destroy the ring set and it doesn't take much of a gas contaminated oil to destroy a perfectly good engine broken in or not

the rest of your post didn't need to be quoted because there are better less destructive ways to see if the fuel pump is working

 

if you are turning the car over and its not running you will smell it none the less, its not about being destructive.

 

well dump some gas in your oil and try it out and see

 

fixed

anyway 574, you know what I meant, if you smell fuel move onto spark.

 

I did notice the CPS didn't wanna go in at first. Maybe it wasn't lined up

 

tell us the story nicholas...

 

I wasent referring to the smell

 

" OOOOOHHHH THAT SMELL!!!"
in lynard skynard voice.

 

I will grind the paint off. But when I was trying to start it I didn't have the coil packs bolted down they were just pushed down... could that cause a bad ground also?

 

Yes

 

dam skippy jr

 

Ah **** Well looks like I have a whole list of **** to try now

 

Lol the smallest things are the biggest pita

 

Got coil packs grounded, still nothing
Keeps blowing injector fuses so Josh said to check for pinched wires, found a mangled red wire on cyl 3 that was between blower and IM

Codes: PO230, PO340, PO341, PO452

 

Fixed Injector harness and replaced fuse and what do ya know it starts and dies, starts dies and backfires, backfire, so now I know it is CPS related.

I set cyl 4 to TDC on the compression stroke, lined the hex and stuck it in. Wouldnt start.
Did the same thing, pulled the hex out and it was lined up where it was supposed to be... Im stumped. I also tried unplugging and plugging the sensor in. Also tried taking the positive cable off the battery to reset the computer. I'm stumped

 

I am stumped for you.

I too am suffering post build issues more than a month later. My car runs like a beast but only to 12 psi. I found a 2psi 2inHg leak at the bov and fixed it. I have a boost leak somewhere else and I am about out of things to try. Only thing left is the brake booster hose and waste gate flapper. Other than not getting my full boost the car runs awesome... So I feel ya.

 

She's alive.