Official Turbo LSJ thread!!!
08-30-2012, 08:11 PM
#2779
I just did a leak down test on #2 at TDC and heard air flowing into my intake. (that would explain the wired problems with my TBS error) 130 psi on a new engine with rings was good.
I have friend who is a toyota tech that is an ASE certified mechanic, told me he just did this on his sisters car and it was burnt valves, the cyl were at 130 psi when new.
I wont know until I know. I have to move in a month and unless I can get some serious help I am going to wait until after I move so I have more time and a new home/garage to work in. My rental here sucks for garage space and driveway.
I have friend who is a toyota tech that is an ASE certified mechanic, told me he just did this on his sisters car and it was burnt valves, the cyl were at 130 psi when new.
I wont know until I know. I have to move in a month and unless I can get some serious help I am going to wait until after I move so I have more time and a new home/garage to work in. My rental here sucks for garage space and driveway.
Last edited by c130aviator; 08-31-2012 at 12:39 AM.
08-30-2012, 08:56 PM
#2784
Doubtful, pull the head and check. Most LSJ bottom ends are the first thing to go, so i'd bet on that first.
Plan on pistons at minimum, hope there isn't much more damage than that. And be ready to tune properly when you put it back together, or leave it on lower boost.
Plan on pistons at minimum, hope there isn't much more damage than that. And be ready to tune properly when you put it back together, or leave it on lower boost.
08-30-2012, 09:03 PM
#2785
probably not burnt, just have it checked and replace the valve seals with the viton seals from zzp. Only 20$ for the set. The guides on these have been known to give a few people issues, but mine were fine. Other than that, lap the valves when u re install everything for a good seat. I got my diamond forged pistons for about 500$ Total seal rings for 140$. I recommend the arp head studs, they are only a little more than stock new ones and are reusable. The other misc stuff u will get, head gasket, rod bearings and rod bolts arent that exp. I did my build including full cams, valve springs and retainers, new valve seals, port and polish job, neutral balance shafts, arp head studs and extras including my fuel system stuff all for under 2500$
( since i work at a dealer though i did get everything cheaper) right down to the gm special rtv
( since i work at a dealer though i did get everything cheaper) right down to the gm special rtv
08-30-2012, 09:08 PM
#2788
yup and even honed my block with it still in the car. Took me about 2 hours to have the pistons out on tear down, and about 4 to put everything back together and torquing to spec. the hardest part was doing the neutral shafts with the motor still in the car because u have to lower the cradle to pull them out and clear the frame
imo its quicker to do it in the car, esp just a piston swap.
imo its quicker to do it in the car, esp just a piston swap.
Last edited by zrated89; 08-30-2012 at 09:08 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
08-30-2012, 09:10 PM
#2789
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so it is possiable to swap nutrual balance shaftes while in the car?! another part added to the list lol. that was my main concern. that is if the lsj balence shafts are the same as the 2.2
and the peda went back to normal
