No need to send them separately. You know I'll be ordering some more **** soon! Just throw it in the box ;-)

 

bigger rear bar creates more ''oversteer'' more or less although i dont feel its as dramatic as people say it is. where as a larger front bar would create more understeer or push as some say. but when your cornering hard you can definately feel the rear want to come around. on the street you shouldnt be pushing the car that hard but if you plan to auto x or road race i feel its the bar to have.

the way the rear suspension is designed johns bar helps bring it around and keep it planted in corners especially when paired with spherical twisiting beam bushings.

 

how bout some more info on this rear twisting beam bushing ... anyone have it installed .. reviews ?

 

Stickers?! I didn't see any in my PCV package. Ill advertise for free!

Plus it will give me at least five more wheel horse.

 

okay thank you

 

Awesome, just paid the invoice. Thank you

 

Really considering getting bushings. Gah. First things first. -_-

 

For a pure street car im not sure how i feel about them because on the street they are pretty much an invisible mod imho. dont get me wrong. they dont make noise and they are 150% street worthy. by all means though if your stock bushings wear out get these as replacements.

now for a street/spirited track day car i think these are 100% worth it. they allow the beam to travel emensly more and with a twisting beam style car its needed. now to give an example here... if you have stock bushings you can drop your shocks and it will kind of hang out at an 45 angle. try doing that with these bushings in there the beam will fall to a complete 90 degree angle to the trunk floor.

so my 2 cents here is im 100% satisfied for what these have done for me and i push the car at the limits with a xxx bar out back and just like my xxx control arms i love how the car feels. they do the job in the front and this definately does the job in the rear. my tires stay planted to the ground.

 

Amanda in Grand Prairie Alberta has them in her Cobalt LS it was cheaper to use those and do a brake conversion to disc than fix it the OEM way. All good.
I run them. All good.
HalfPenny and Wangspeed have them, I am sending them the latest updates; Matty has a time attack rear beam with a clamping rear bushing. Stock beams have a simple tube and I had to revise the inserts to stop them walking in the beam.
as far as operation and NVH, really acceptable trade off and not noisy much at all, Harshness is there you hear the tar strips and even feel them sometimes. Thats the trade off, spherical to rubber inserts.

 

Im almost ready to purchase a XXX bar from Powell myself. Currently completely stock suspension other than the H&R Springs. So Powell if I pair the XXX bar with your most revised set of the YYZ Springs is there any bushings I should replace up front or any mod I should make up front to help the car, since I told you I will be AutoXing it. Thanks

 

I always suggest that folks replace the trailing cabs on the front lower control arm as these bushings are soft new and wear out quickly. The spherical all weather cabs I sell last forever and there is no lost movement anymore.

 

Ok and To be honest the front feels kind of loose and has for a while. Would the endlinks have anything to do with this? And can you feel any difference with the swaybar clamp I saw on here somewhere?

 

endlinks are strange. if they are bad they clank and make noise; if they are too long they have bad geometry then strange things happen as you turn in, once turned in the sway bar is done pretty much. if the sway bar travels one way or the other, it can cause the sway bar to contact the control arm and it would change theoretically and practically roll stiffness. so keeping stuff in place where it was intended to be is a good thing.
there is no point in buying springs bars and stuff like that if the basic suspension joints are no good and the fasteners are loose and the steering shaft u j's are bad , and I am seeing more and more of that in older Cobalts and Ions....

so.

basic housekeeping first.

 

So first just change the little things like bushings and the front cabs? Do you sell replacements for all bushings up front?

 

On another subject I have been producing LNF PCV upgrade packages for about a year now, and decided to do one for LSJ, I have pulled apart so many inlet manifolds and seen so much oil in the intake.

Here is my set up
\and this is what it looked like when I pulled the cover off after the CED trip



and this is the exit port to the air inlet, with the seperator filter removed; dry as a bone... the exit port is top one right of picture. the middle one is the overflow vent.



good news for my motor. I am thinking this is a very worthwhile upgrade.

 

Dang John more inovation, glad someone is still producing great parts

 

When do you plan on receiving the check valves? I know you talked about adding them to the kits??

 

Check valves are only needed if running a big turbo correct?

 

I am thinking about making it standard for all installs. It surely doesnt appear to be needed in an OEM Spec engine running properly. And I dont have one installed and I have no issues, clearly.

That said, these ecotecs are NOT getting younger, folks beat on them a lot, and the check valves we have coming should ( I say that without having the actual part in my hands) should be easy to install. and not expensive. I am not looking to add cost to the package, but may have to add a little.

Mann Hummell quoted me over 50 dollars for a check valve. each.

Yup. Fortunately there are many sources for these things; but most check valves blow off at way higher pressures than we want. Wont be long and we will have them in hand.

Stock Sky Turbo inlet pipe. Car is in excellent shape leak downs at 10% or less across the board. This oil in the inlet thing is an issue no doubt.

 

Powell word on the street via Facebook is that you copied the design of the TTR rotated mount

You also admitted to a certain someone that you copied the design, and you also sent him the mount where he could clearly tell that you took the TTR mount apart to copy the design...

The things I read on some groups page are comical!

 

That guy Shael Rosen came to me for a trans rebuild ( a failed rebuild from another shop) we fixed it, he came back with a speedo jumping. Said it was the trans fault. I drove it. Clearly it was
not the trans. He was mad about it I offered to pull the trans and open it and if as I said it was not broken he would pay for the work. He left.

Earlier I sold him the ex Matty Omiotek mounts I got to dissect and figure out what TTR had done to copy, along with material analysis. They had been sitting around for three years and i sold them for like 25 bucks.

I saw that post and decided to take the high road.

the same guy Rosen is a James Rake nutswinger.

Funnily enough, he also posted his motor blew up.

click

 

John the line running out of back left corner of your valve cover the stainless line where is that headed? Mine seems to be getting oil and gunk on outside of it. Mine goes to the right though?

 

Also what's the benefit of a single pass inlet manifold? Just browsing your site and saw it

 

Yes. That is stock routing on an LSJ , It has a PCV which uses one line for both inlet vacuum and vent from the cover. It goes right, along the back of the rocker cover, to the front of the engine and the inlet tube. I am thinking the engineers did that to keep some heat in the PCV hose, as condensation is an issue with the front mounted PCV vent on Cavalier Ecotecs. But the 2.2. and 2.4 kept the front mounted vent up to 2010 so I dunno if thats true or not.

I ran the hoses that way as its hard to package the seperator otherwise.

The Cobalt goes here.


Time will tell if there is a condensation issue I have to deal with. I do have a customer with a Turbo LSJ in NY , Chris there has a nice conversion but his current set up generates a HUGE amount of condensation and I am not sure as we are fitting the PVC upgrade to it, if there will be enough seperation to deal with excess moisture.

SAABS have a huge PCV issue 2001-2004 2.0 ecotec style motors, and one guy in China runs an oil seperator AND a water seperator, and for some folks motors it may require that for winter driving. Not sure. I dont run my LSJ in the winter no more, I am going to " honor the timeless classics "and keep it for ever....

 

I didnt know he makes a single pass!! For the lsj? It makes it so that collant just passes through once from drivers side to passenger side. This way it has no chance to sit in it and collect heat. I kean sure it flows well in a dual pass setup but its still in there considerably longer than a single pass.